Destination Byzantium! The 2010 Via Egnatia Caravan

The dates for the Via Egnatia Foundation’s 2010 trek along the ancient Via Egnatia have been announced. The destination is Istanbul; through the mythical Golden Gate, and maybe ending at Hagia Sophia?

Hagia Sophia

Hagia Sophia

The schedule is as follows:

Week Dates From- To Remarks
1 Sunday May 2 -Saturday May 9 Kristallopigi (Greece, near Albanian Border) – Florina Other party comes from Skopje/Bitola
2 Sunday May 9 – Saturday May 15 Florina – Edessa May 16: Bus to Giannitsa / Thessaloniki
  Thursday June 17 Meeting second part trail in Thessaloniki  
3 Friday June 18 – Saturday June 26 Amphipoli – Alexandroupoli June 18: bus to Amphipoli;June 23: bus Kavala – Komotini
4 Sunday June 27 – Saturday July 3 Alexandroupoli – Inecik (Turkey) June 28: crossing border Greece-Turkey
5 Sunday July 4 – Saturday July 10 Inecik – Istanbul June 4: bus to Tegirdag
Week 1 and week 3 go partly through mountainous terrain.

Full details of how to join the Caravan for 2010 can be found on the Via Egnatia Foundation website. A extraordinary time is guaranteed!

How Byzantium Can Help Preserve Pax Americana

Economic crisis, mounting national debt, excessive foreign commitments — this is no way to run an empire. America needs serious strategic counseling. And fast. It has never been Rome, and to adopt its strategies no — its ruthless expansion of empire, domination of foreign peoples, and bone-crushing brand of total war — would only hasten America’s decline. Better instead to look to the empire’s eastern incarnation: Byzantium, which outlasted its Roman predecessor by eight centuries. It is the lessons of Byzantine grand strategy that America must rediscover today. 

Fortunately, the Byzantines are far easier to learn from than the Romans, …. read the full interesting article here

Mosaic Hunting – Aquileia, Grado, and Concordia

It might be tempting to say that after our trip to Northern Italy to visit all the major Byzantines sites, and to view the mosaics, that we may be suffering from ‘mosaic fatigue’ or even worse ‘Mosaic Neck’ after standing and looking up in awe at the wonderful art we saw, but nothing could be further from the truth. We have returned satiated, full, replete, totally happy with our holiday, and eager for more.

The goal was primarily to have a great holiday, and how could we fail in Italy, with warm autumnal sunshine, excellent food, good wine, lashings of espresso, and that all round Dolce Vita style you find in that great country? However, nothing could have prepared us for the Byzantine monuments and art that we found. We were at all times entranced by the superb imagery and the detail to be found in this art form perfected in Constantinople that evolved and made its way around the Mediterranean as far as Moorish Spain and the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. At the back of our mind was always the thought that if these wonders were to be found in what was effectively a relatively remote province of the Empire, what marvels must have existed in the Queen of Cities herself? What treasures have been lost? It is fortunate for us that Ravenna and Venice were so far from the destruction wrought by the Ottomans.

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We spent our first three days in and around Aquileia which is to be found in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. The town was once a very prosperous Roman military garrison town but in the fifth century its fortunes declined following at first an attack by Alaric and his Goths, and then finally it was sacked by Attila the Hun in 452 after a three month siege. It is now a quiet place of around 3,000 souls sited on the flat plain, overlooked by the Dolomites to the north which were the setting for the start of Hemingway’s excellent and tragic novel “A Farewell to Arms”. It would appear that if you dig down about one metre anywhere in the environs of Aquileia you will find some Roman remains, and beyond the town you will find Roman cemeteries with more funerary urns than you can shake a stick at; they have so many that the town’s National Archaeological Museum has created pyramids of urns in the museum garden.

The Basilica is one of the oldest churches in Christendom built almost immediately after the Edict of Milan in which the Emperors of the Eastern and Western Empire, Licinius and Constantine respectively agreed to tolerate Christians within the Empire. The early church had two naves both of which had mosaic floors paid for by patrons, or sponsors, many of whom we can identify today by name, and whose images have been incorporated into the floors.

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After an earthquake in 1348 the Basilica was rebuilt and these mosaic floors were covered up by almost one metre of debris and a new floor. Columns were sunk into the mosaic floor which damaged it. The western nave was demolished to make way for the campinale which is a massive structure. Considerable parts of the mosaic floor remain and can be viewed underground. The effect of the weight of the tower can be seen in this picture as it presses down; the tower is a sinking, and not a leaning, tower!

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The mosaic floor in the eastern nave covers an area of 760 sq m.

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Despite the effects of damp, column damage and subsidence, the images are as alive today as when they were first laid over one thousand six hundred years ago. The main themes are of Jonah and the Whale and the Apostles fishing in an abundant sea.

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In the Crypt of the Fescoes there are some murals of St Hermagoras which are in fair condition. St Hermagoras was the first bishop of Aquileia. The murals depict scenes from his life and show events in the development of Aquileia as an important Christian centre with its own Patriarchy. The images below show a crusader and the graphic death of the Saint.

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Death of St Hermagoras, Crypt of the Frescoes

Whilst there was a lot to see in Aquileia it was a very quiet place (which had its benefits) but we found no really good places to eat. The Hotel Patriarchi was comfortable with good sized rooms (Euro 44 per person per night) and service.

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There was a big contrast with Aquileia’s lively and bumptious neighbour Grado. This town just ten minutes drive south along a causeway across a lagoon was an early rival to Venice. It has a couple of canals and is now very popular with Italians seeking a beach holiday. Grado was a competitor of Aquileia and at one time had its own Patriarchy. It was a place of refuge for the citizens of Aquileia during attacks by barbarian invaders. Grado offers a good alternative as a place to stay with many hotels and excellent restaurants with fish being the speciality. It is well worth a visit for a day to view its Byzantine past. It includes the Basilica of St Eufemia with a splendid Byzantine pulpit and a large mosaic pavement that you can walk upon, and the church of St Mary nearby. It is fun just wandering around its narrow streets.

Byzantine Pulpit St Euphemia, Grado

Mosaic pavement, Basilica of St Eufemia, Grado

Grado street

If visiting Aquileia other places of note are the museum, the old Roman port, the Christian Paleo-Christian Museum (with more mosaics and some wonderfully lively early Christian headstones which show the real belief of the early Christians that the second coming of Christ was close at hand, and the certainty of their own Resurrection in Christ).

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In the rear garden of the Basilica is a particularly poignant war cemetery to some of the Italian soldiers who died fighting the Austro-Hungarians in the mountains to the north during WW1. The brewery five minutes away in San Lorenzo is also a pleasant place to while away a couple of hours and to sample the local beer. The town is apparently not ever particularly busy and we were able to enjoy time sitting in a cafe in the square in front of the Basilica drinking coffee and enjoying some simple pasta dishes.

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On the way to our next destination, Venice, we stopped for lunch in Concordia Sagittaria to visit the 11C Baptistery.

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It was a very warm Sunday afternoon and we arrived just as a baptism ended in the Baptistery and a typically chaotic Italian wedding was taking place in the church (not particularly worth a visit). Situated just 3 km south of Porto Gruaro on a river teeming with fish, pleasant and spacious, Concordia is the sort of place that makes an ideal stop for refreshment when on a journey.

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I am busy preparing the next article about our time in Venice which obviously included a visit to St Mark’s, but also gave us the wonderful surprise of an exhibition about Torcello at the Museo Diocesano di Venezia (very close to the Bridge of Sighs). This is like the London Byzantium 330-1453 Exhibition but without the crowds. If you are going to Venice it is a ‘must see’. The exhibition runs until 10 January 2010. Then you follow that up with a visit to the island itself on the lagoon and its 1,000 year old Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta with stunning mosaics in the nave and apse. Exhibition entry is 5 Euro and includes entry to the Basilica on the island. In Venice that is terrific value!

Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta

Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta

Mosaic Hunting – Update

Just a quick update on our trip to Italy. The final bookings have been made and we leave in a week or two. We have added Concordia to our itinerary. This is an interesting place near Aquileia. I have found an excerpt from an online encyclopedia as follows:

Cathedral of Concordia Sagittaria.

Cathedral of Concordia Sagittaria.

CONCORDIA (mod. Concordia Sagittaria), an ancient town of Venetia, in Italy, 16 ft. above sea-level, 31 m. W. of Aquileia, at the junction of roads to Altinum and Patavium, to Opitergium (and thence either to Vicetia and Verona, or Feltria and Tridentum), to Noricum by the valley of the Tilaventus (Tagliamento), and to Aquileia. It was a mere village until the time of Augustus, who made it a colony. Under the later empire it was one of the most important towns of Italy; it had a strong garrison and a factory of missiles for the army. The cemetery of the garrison has been excavated since 1873, and a large number of important inscriptions, the majority belonging to the end of the 4th and the beginning of the 5th centuries, have been discovered. It was taken and destroyed by Attila in A.D. 452. Considerable remains of the ancient town have been found – parts of the city walls, the sites of the forum and the theatre, and probably that of the arms factory. The objects found are preserved at Portogruaro, i 4 m. to the N. The see of Concordia was founded at an early period, and transferred in 1339 to Portogruaro, where it still remains.

Main sites are:

  • Trichora Martyrium (350 AD)
  • Remains of the Roman Bridge (1st-2nd century AD)
  • Bishop’s Papalce (15th century)
  • Baptistery (11th century)
  • Cathedral of St. Stephen (1466)
  • Mosaic Hunting in Northern Italy

     

    We have just made our final arrangements to go on a holiday to northern Italy to seek out the Byzantine treasures of Aquiliea, Venice, and Ravenna.

    I am looking forward to relaxing and exploring the sights despite the weakness of the Pound Sterling against the Euro! There will be a full update of the trip on the blog with pictures; this gives me a real reason to sort out the photographs section.

    My wife and I will be visiting:

    Aquiliea - most famous for the mosaic floor of its Basilica, some 750 sq m!

     

    The wonderful mosaic floor of the Basilica at Aquiliea

    The wonderful mosaic floor of the Basilica at Aquiliea

     

     

    Venice  - needing no introduction, Venice houses many Byzantine treasures looted during the capture of Constantinople by the Ventians and Crusaders in 1204.

    One of the Quadriga bronze horses

    One of the Quadriga bronze horses

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Ravenna - to visit all these wonderful places!

    The Emporer Justinian and courtiers - Basilica of San Vitale

     
    The Emporer Justinian and courtiers – Basilica of San Vitale
  • Neonian Baptistery (c. 430)
  • Mausoleum of Galla Placidia (c. 430)
  • Arian Baptistry (c. 500)
  • Archiepiscopal Chapel (c. 500)
  • Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo (c. 500)
  • Mausoleum of Theodoric (520)
  • Basilica of San Vitale (548)
  • Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare in Classe (549)
  •  Plus plenty of good food and wine!

    Will Turkey’s EU membership dream come true?

    This is one of the big issues that faces Europe over the next decade; how to deal with Turkey. Is it part of Europe or is President Sarkozy right when he says he will not “tell French schoolchildren that the borders of Europe extend to Syria and Iraq”? If it is not admitted to the EU will it be a thorn in Europe’s side as a hotbed of muslim fundamentalism? Why do people in Europe think of the Turks as ‘Arab’ when they are anything but? Does this European antipathy result from recent events related to fundamenatlist Islam, or its it something deeper, harking back to the expansion of the Ottoman Empire and the destruction of Byzantium? In short a battle between Christian and Muslim, the ‘West’ versus the ‘East’? A conflict that is as old as time an started with the Greeks and Persians …

    Will Turkey’s EU membership dream come true?

    Bringing Turkey into the fold raises profound questions about the very nature of European identity, reports David Blair in Istanbul.

    Burying the grievances bequeathed by history lies at the heart of the European ideal. The enmities of living memory, particularly the fratricidal struggle between France and Germany, no longer haunt the European Union, yet one far older and deeper fear still lurks behind a vital question about its future.

    Five centuries ago, Europe lived in dread of Turkey’s expansion up the Danube valley, with Suleiman the Magnificent, the Ottoman Empire’s longest-serving and most successful Sultan, dispatching his armies from Istanbul to conquer Hungary and besiege Vienna.

    Today, Turkey is a secular democracy, a longstanding member of Nato, an adherent of the European Convention on Human Rights and the Council of Europe, and a country firmly anchored in the West. Suleiman built a magnificent mosque that still dominates Istanbul’s skyline, but the streets around his creation are not relics of Byzantium – they look and feel like any in Europe’s Mediterranean heartland.

    Many ordinary Turks proclaim themselves to be European and their country’s Western outlook is woven into the very fabric of the secular republic created by Ataturk in 1923. Accordingly, Turkey’s government harbours a cherished ambition to join the European Union. Formal accession talks designed to achieve this aim began in 2005, with Britain the most prominent supporter of Turkey’s bid for membership.

    Yet bringing Turkey into the fold raises profound questions about the very nature of European identity and the boundaries of its civilisation. It also stirs deeply ingrained folk memories of that advance along the Danube.

    Many leaders, particularly President Nicolas Sarkozy of France, make no secret of their unease. Since winning power in 2007, Mr Sarkozy has hardened France’s position on Turkey’s accession into an outright “no”.

    Earlier this year, he urged European leaders to stop “lying” about Turkey’s chances of achieving full membership and declared that he would not “tell French schoolchildren that the borders of Europe extend to Syria and Iraq”. Angela Merkel, the German Chancellor, quietly agrees with him, leaving Gordon Brown as the only leader of Europe’s “big three” to favour Turkey’s application.

    Lying behind these concerns is one unspoken fact about Turkey’s possible accession: if it succeeds, the EU’s second most populous member state would be 97 per cent Muslim. At present, Turkey has 72 million people, but this will rise to almost 100 million by 2050. Letting Turkey join would create the near certainty that, eventually, the biggest EU member state would be overwhelmingly Muslim. Leaders who oppose Turkey’s ambition tend to tiptoe around this fact, while dropping hints that it is not far from their minds. Most candid was Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, the former French president who was chosen to oversee the drafting of the EU’s stillborn constitution.

    Allowing Turkey to join “would be the end of the European Union”, he declared in 2002, because the country has a “different culture, a different approach, a different way of life”.

    The EU knows how to manage successful enlargements, having doubled its membership in less than 20 years. When the club expanded to embrace the countries formerly trapped behind the Iron Curtain, no one denied the European identity of the likes of Poland, Hungary and Lithuania, nor their essential right to join the EU on the same basis as any existing member.

    With Turkey, however, everything is different. “I think Europeans see Turkey as being part of the Arab world,” says Okan Oktenoglu, a 42-year-old hotel worker in Istanbul. “Some of them think we are fanatical Muslims, like the Taliban. But I am European. People here think like Europeans.”

    In the end, the debate over Turkish membership turns on two opposing conceptions of European identity. Mr Sarkozy – and with greater candour, Mr Giscard d’Estaing – see this as bound up with ethnicity, history, geography and, put bluntly, a Christian heritage.

    There is, however, another way of seeing European identity, by which Europe is about values: democracy, human rights, the rule of law, religious and political tolerance. Any country that embraces this way of life becomes European by virtue of this choice and is therefore eligible for EU membership.

    On this criterion, Turkey has a strong claim. The prospect of EU membership has reinforced the country’s secular democracy and led directly to fundamental reforms, notably the abolition of the death penalty.

    “The relationship with the EU has been the driving force of change in Turkish politics, society and economics,” says Ilter Turan, professor of political science at Bilgi University in Istanbul.

    The central question is whether this might run into the sands if full membership becomes a hopeless quest. The formal accession talks now under way are divided into 35 subjects or “chapters”. Of these, only one has been completed after four years of work. Mr Sarkozy has chosen to prevent five that bear directly on the practicalities of EU membership from even being discussed.

    The lack of progress along this obstacle course has soured the debate in Turkey. Once, more than 70 per cent of the public favoured EU membership; that total has now fallen to 48 per cent in a recent survey.

    “As the position of the French government has evolved into an absolute ‘no’, so the enthusiasm here has waned,” says Prof Turan. “People say ‘if you don’t want us, then we don’t want you’. But people also know that the EU is not a united block of no-sayers. They understand that the intensity of anti-Turkish feeling displayed by Mr Sarkozy is not typical.”

    So Turkey has not given up, but the further reforms required by the EU are hugely ambitious. Complying with European environmental regulations could cost Turkey £120 billion, according to Cenghiz Aktar, the head of the EU relations department at Bahcesehir University. Allowing European firms to compete in the country’s public procurement market of about £50 billion is another requirement. No Turkish government could possibly take these steps without a real prospect of EU membership as the ultimate reward.

    But Turkey’s government can still damage its own cause. Recep Tayyip Erdogan, the prime minister, is notoriously intolerant of criticism. Earlier this year, the government took revenge on the Dogan Media Group, which owns a variety of critical newspapers and television stations, by landing it with a tax bill of almost £1.6 billion – more than the company’s entire value. The European Commission, which will issue a progress report on Turkey’s application in December, said this showed “freedom of the press is at stake”.

    In the end, however, guaranteeing Turkey’s position as a pillar of stability in the Middle East is of overwhelming long-term importance. Allowing the country into the EU could ease relations between Islam and the West and help Turkey to export its success to the world’s most troubled region.

    Conversely, a Turkey spurned by the EU would be far more vulnerable to fundamentalist Islam. An isolated Turkey would not be a force for progress in the Middle East; instead, the Middle East could become a force for instability in Turkey. If so, Europe’s own security would undoubtedly be threatened. So whether or not Turkey eventually joins, the consequences are momentous.

    article from Daily Telegraph 24 Sep 2009